Tuesday, January 13, 2009

What Stringing Materials Do I Use?

Stringing Materials (that I prefer and use)

Soft Flex Wire
You can buy this at your local bead store or Soft Flex Company online. It comes in 30ft spools, 100 ft spools, and 1000 ft spools. You do not knot this cord, you use crimp beads or tubes. I prefer tubes.

I buy the Original as far as coloring goes, but I do like the new Antique Brass color.

I tried Soft Touch Wire (made by Soft Flex) and it is said to be just as strong but more flexible, but to me it just looks like the plastic coating is thinner and I like the extra protection of more plastic to help protect the wires inside from the sharp insides of stone, glass, and other beads that are not smooth inside.

Gauges I use:
.014 (I use only for lighter weight beads and beads with tiny holes, such as some semi-precious stones and some freshwater pearls.)

.019 (My staple. I use this for almost everything I do. I use 2x3mm crimp tubes along with this even though they may recommend 2x2mm. I like the added strength.)

.024 (I use this only when all of the beads I am using have large enough holes to handle this thickness. Freshwater pearls and most semi-precious stones do not fit on this size. Plus, it is a bit stiffer. I use this when I use a lot of Scott’s lampwork beads with just some metal spacers.)

Sinew (Nylon) Also called Artificial Sinew.
I bought my huge spool at the bead store I used to work at in Wenatchee. Some bead stores may carry this, if not, a leather/tanning supply place will have it. I just googled it and here’s a link to a place that has it. I’m sure there are many more sources.
http://www.thethreadexchange.com/

I use this for all or most of my multi-strand jewelry. Each strand splits down into four strands. When splitting the sinew, be careful not to break the small fibers. You have to start pulling it apart somewhere towards the middle of your piece and just finesse the strands apart. You’ll get the feel for it. Just don’t lose your patience. Once split, pull and stretch each piece almost as hard as you hands can take it. Otherwise, this stretching will occur over time and your piece will be loose. Cut your piece about a foot and a half longer on each end so you can freely re-trim ends as needed. I re-trim a lot when using seed beads which I use in almost all of my pieces.

To end your piece, I use a bead with a large hole as a “knot hider” and then tie all of my strands into it and then with a lighter, I slowly burn the ends and press out the melting nylon with a wet finger. This makes a “smash” of nylon and bonds all of the pieces together at the end of the knot. No glue needed. To learn more about my techniques with this, you would need to take my Multi-Strand class (coming soon hopefully).

Nyltex

This is a thicker matted nylon cord. Also used in the leather industry. I use this for example when I make a necklace that is just all lampwork beads. I like how the thickness fills the holes in the beads and helps them to lay right. It is super strong and makes a good knot at the end that can also be burned. I hide that knot in knot-hiders as well. Great for pieces like this that will be worn a lot. Give this cord a good stretch, a very good stretch before using. I sometimes even wet it, stretch it, wait for it to dry, and then stretch again.

Here is a link to a place that sells black. I use black and brown. I’m sure there are plenty of sources, but here is this one. They also carry Sinew.
http://www.bearcreekleather.com/

2 comments:

Kathy said...

May I ask if you use flat or round sinew? Polypropylene or nylon? Before I buy it it would be so nice to know which makes the nicest, strongest jewelry! THANK you so much. I'm new to this....Thank you so much!

Bearfoot Art said...

I use Nylon/Flat. It breaks down into four strands.